It’s hard not to feel smug as I watch my East Coast neighbors pack up each summer and leave for Newport, Cape Cod, Amagansett, Nantucket, and Martha’s Vineyard, where they’ll battle traffic and crowds to score a scant slice of sand and an overpriced lobster roll. Perhaps they’re not aware of the alternative, a “third coast” where shimmering freshwater lakes, welcoming small towns, rolling cherry orchards, and expansive golden sand beaches await.
With more miles of shoreline than any of the lower 48 states, Michigan often flies under the radar when it comes to popular summertime destinations; though Midwesterners, including my family, have long been in the know. During my early childhood, we bounced between rental cottages before settling on the shores of Torch Lake—a deep, clear, turquoise-hued body of water often voted one of the most beautiful lakes in the world—where we still spend summers to this day.
It’s easy to feel reluctant when sharing the secrets of Northern Michigan with the wider world, though between a host of high-profile restaurant openings, new hospitality concepts, and a wine scene that’s attracting national recognition there’s never been a better time to visit.
Where to Eat
The region’s rich agrarian history has shaped its innovative culinary scene. In Traverse City, the largest town in Northern Michigan, farm-to-table meets fine dining at various venerable establishments: The Cooks’ House, a petite, chef-owned restaurant; Farm Club, equal parts working farm, market, restaurant, and brewery; the iconic, waterside Boathouse; and the newly opened Modern Bird, where seasonal vegetable-forward sides pair perfectly with hearty dishes like venison topped with cherry gastrique. HexenBelle, a Palestinian bakery, also serves up delectable brunch fare, such as shakshuka and coconut curry fried rice.
Crocodile Palace just opened to rave reviews, with zesty Sichuan dishes such as smashed cucumber salad, dan dan noodles, mapo tofu, and their addictive house chili oil. Forrest, a natural, organic wine shop, transforms into an upscale ticketed communal dining experience on Friday and Saturday nights—if you’re lucky enough to score a ticket. In neighboring Glen Arbor, a historic grist mill dating back to 1897 has undergone an elegant restoration, reopening this spring as an upscale cafe, The Mill, which serves Parlor Coffee and scratch-made baked goods.
Opening late this spring in the heart of Old Mission Peninsula, Mission Proper, a seasonally-focused cafe from husband-and-wife team Jennifer and Brent Kuhar, will serve elevated brunch fare. Think: smoked bourbon glazed cinnamon buns and savory French toast with bacon jam. “We couldn’t imagine a dreamier place to bring our vision to life than on Old Mission,” says Jennifer, “where the privilege of being surrounded by agricultural abundance is a gift, and a strong community of entrepreneurial creatives drives inspiration.”
Summer abundance is on full display at the many charming roadside farm stands and weekly Sara Hardy Farmers Market. Certain purveyors have become household names in our kitchen, gracing the table at every meal: organic vegetables from Lakeview Hill Farm; strawberries and sweet cherries from Bardenhagen Berries; blueberries from Buchan’s Blueberry Hill; creamy, delectable goat cheeses from Idyll Farms; hand-pulled mozzarella from Saltless Sea Creamery; and smoked and freshly caught Great Lakes fish from Carlson’s Fish Market and Bellaire Smokehouse.
What to Drink
Situated along the 45th parallel—a distinction shared with notable winemaking localities, including France’s Burgundy and Italy’s Piedmont—the region’s freshwater shoreline and glacial soils give way to wines with unique terroir. Sparklings—ranging from MAWBY’s Grace Brut Rosé and Mari Vineyard’s Simplicissimus to Bonobo’s Blanc de Blanc and Left Foot Charley’s Gitali—are having a real moment.
“I’m here to make world-class wines, but because we’re not constrained by the wine world’s expectations, we can have fun and play,” says Dave Bos of Bos Wines, a renowned viticulturist who produces a range of crisp, fruit-forward whites and rosés from Old Mission Peninsula grapes, including an effervescent summer-ready Methode Agricole. “There’s just so much potential in Michigan.”
Neu Cellars, a relative newcomer to the scene now on its fourth release, is producing small batch, zippy natural wines that are full of personality, with no additions or subtractions. “Every bottle of wine that we make starts with the land,” says winemaker John Keller. “We want the region to express itself through our wines; beautiful, crisp, refreshing.”
What to Do
Michigan is named for the Ojibwe word mishigamaa, meaning “great water.” Life here revolves around the numerous lakes, large and small, and the charming communities on their shores that swell in size when summer residents return; many to cottages that have been in families for generations. Between kayaking, water skiing, wakeboarding, and boating, summer days leisurely unfold on the water, though you should allow ample time for day trips devoted to exploring the area’s vast natural wonders.
The 22-mile Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail (one of many in the vast network of well-maintained TART trails), weaves through scenic forests and farmland, and is perfect for a day of biking and hiking. Prefer to take in the sights on the water? Rent a kayak or canoe at Crystal River Outfitters and ride the gentle current of Crystal River, which winds through Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Or hop in the car and hit the iconic M-22 highway, which follows the Lake Michigan shoreline of the Leelanau Peninsula, passing through dozens of quaint towns including Empire, Glen Arbor, Leland, Northport, and Suttons Bay, as well as verdant farmland dotted with picturesque barns. Here, bountiful orchards, at their peak in high summer, produce more cherries than any other county in the country, a fact celebrated annually at the National Cherry Festival.
Set amid the natural beauty, on a 1,200-acre campus sandwiched between Green Lake and Duck Lake, Interlochen Center for the Arts is the heart of Northern Michigan’s arts and cultural scene. The annual summertime Interlochen Arts Festival draws big names to its stage: this year’s impressive lineup includes The Beach Boys, Styx, The Temptations, Elvis Costello, and Greensky Bluegrass.
Michigan is well known for its illustrious furniture-making history, including Grand Rapids-based Herman Miller, Knoll, and Steelcase, whose modern designs came to define the 20th century. It should come as no surprise then, that the state is loaded with antique gems, ranging from mid-century modern furniture to primitives. You can easily get lost for a day exploring the area’s largest antique mall, Wilson Antiques, or peruse a more curated collection at Elk Rapids Antiques (go around back to the tiny stone cottage which houses the utterly charming vintage and lifestyle shop, Margot).
Further up Leelanau Peninsula sits the quaint fishing village of Leland, one of the last working and thriving fishing districts on the Great Lakes. Au Sable is a jewel box of a shop, curated with a refined collection of new and vintage items, including notable brands such as La Soufflerie, Flamingo Estate, and Business & Pleasure. Owner Marissa Wege is also the author of Northern Migration’s Field Guide, an indispensable guidebook to the area filled with insider tips. The slim, whimsically illustrated volume is my favorite welcome gift to bestow upon visitors.